Hitting the souks is a rite of passage for any Marrakesh visitor but once you are haggled out there is another side of town beckoning just beyond the stalls. Kaat Bennahid is one of Marrakesh’s oldest neighbourhoods but it is full of stylishly hip riads shops and restaurants. Here the artisan workshops sell direct and do away with the middle man, do they are great for bagging a bargain.
Le Foundouk is one of my favourites – a fabulous restaurant in an intriguingly difficult location to find ( you will be guided there by hooded staff with lanterns) with fragrant rises and flickering candles foundouk.com Foundouk means an old travellers inn.
Another restaurant I would recommend is Riad Kniza.
A pop up shop (which is permanent! ) is a fashion boutique run by Norya Aryan selling caftan style dresses ( abayas) in vibrant colours. norya-ayron.com
The Ben Youssef Madersa is a Koran college with strikingly carved cedar domes and gorgeous mosaics medersa-ben-youssef.com
Hand weaving art at 6 Souk Ahel Fez is a cute well organised scarf shop where the scarves are constantly being made on the loom in the shop . Wrap up against the chill in one of their rare wool and linen scarves in pastel or jewel colours
Eat at Le Jardin where the menu is inspired by Ottolenghi . Delicious tapas in a blissfully peaceful garden lejardin.ma
Le Maison de la Photographie on Rue Ahl Fes is a thriving archive of morocco’s tribal history l’e-mail dell’abito graphite.ma
And if you are feeling flush stay at Riad Farnatchi, right in the middle of the medina, this is a nine room hotel with king size beds and intimate terraces and an illuminated emerald pool. riadfarnatchi.com